Friday, March 23, 2012

Showing some love for Leipzig

I've been meaning to post these photos all week! Now with less than 24 hours to go until I leave on my next little jaunt (to Amsterdam with Kim-O), the race is on to get this blog up and out the door!

So here we go!

Last weekend, my lovely friends Jason Martin and Diana Hofsommer, invited me to visit them in their "home" town of Leipzig in the former East Germany. Although, I guess technically it is still in the eastern part of Germany...whatever, you get what I mean. I had such a wonderful time learning the history of this beautiful little town, eating and drinking traditional Saxon fare, and even celebrating St. Patty's Day! So, please, allow me to take you on a little walking tour to introduce you to Leipzig. (Jason, please correct and/or ignore any errors).

So where exactly is Leipzig?
Leipzig is a cozy little city located about an hour to an hour and a half southwest of Berlin. It has about 500,000 residents and is in the state of Saxony in Germany.

I loved the cafes and architecture of the center city. The picture on the right is of city hall and at the top you can see the Saxon crest. Notice the blue skies in both of these pictures. Leipzig might be my favorite German city thus far...because they absolutely delivered on the weather. It was GORGEOUS out, which made our 5 hour walking tour of the city very relaxing and comfortable.


Some recent history (1949-1989)
As I mentioned above, Leipzig was a part of East Germany, which was governed by the Communist Deutsche Demokratische Republik (DDR) from 1949-89. This period of time was really quite oppressive for most East Germans. They lived without many of the comforts and means that we take for granted today. I learned a lot about the Secret Police, or Stasi, at the Stasi Museum right in Leipzig. Essentially, the Secret Police were plain-clothed agents for the government. It could be your neighbor, your colleague, your "friend." The Stasi were responsible for keeping track of you...they kept tabs on what you did, what you said, what you ate, where you went. They had wire tapping devices, letter opening machines, they used dogs to trace your wherabouts using scent. It was a world with no secrets. After the wall fell, residents could attain their "file" and find out who was watching them. The whole experience was quite shocking for me.  

 

On a brighter note: Leipzig is also credited for the "Peaceful Revolution." When East Germany was falling, the government was trying to hold onto everything they had. Tens of thousands of Leipzig citizens gathered together and the mayor of Leipzig refused to sign the orders to use violence on the crowds. 20 years after the fall, Leipzigers and those from small cities around Leipzig came to celebrate the fall of East Germany. Jason and Diana were there. How cool is that!

Of course there are still indications of the DDR days. A lot of gray, concrete, non-descript buildings still line the outside of the city. Mostly college students and senior citizens live there today. I didn't take any pictures because they are just not that attractive. I did, however, find the statue below quite interesting. The left side of the artwork is representative of the communist regime...strict, rule-abiding, oppressed. The right side of the statue represents stepping out into a new day with freedom and rights.



Another symbol "left behind" from the DDR days is the Ampelman. This little bugger tells you when you can walk and when you can't. The city and the former East Germany has really embraced this guy, selling lots of coffee mugs and shirts. He's a cutie...




Now for some history, history (back in the day)
So Leipzig can definitely hold its own in the history category. Johann Sebastian Bach was the choir master for the boys choir in St. Thomas' church here. He's actually entombed in the church, which is beautiful, by the way. Please note: the man featured in the picture on the left is not a random stranger. That's Jason.


The picture below and to the right are of beautiful St. Thomas Church.

 

Leipzig also has a very famous statue depicting Faust, the German legend of a scholar who makes a "deal with the devil." People rub Faust's left foot for luck. I'm not sure if there's a connection with Leipzig and Goethe, the author fo Faust, but...it's here, so I rubbed the foot.


One thing that German's really do well (actually most Europeans) is coffee and cakes. But in reality, it was the Turks that brought coffee to the region so many years ago. I was lucky enough to take a break at Caffe Baum, the second oldest coffee house in Europe that's still standing. The ornate carvings show a Turkish trader bringing coffee to a cherub.  


In Leipzig they have what's called a Leipziger Lerche. Now made with marzipan, this little cake was once made with lark, but once King Albert understood their significance for agriculture (they eat bugs) and noticed the waning supply (400,000 alone were sold in 1720), he banned the use of the bird in the delicacy. And for all of you who are wondering...I have no idea if that is what the paper in my picture says. I just looked it up on Wikipedia.


And now for the strange...
OK...so one not so strange thing and one really, really strange thing. Jason and Diana own a Kleingarten (aka small garden). Found all over Germany, these little plots of land and laubens (aka sheds) allow people to get out and away from the city to relax and enjoy their gardens. So, what's weird, right? Well, most Kleingartens are owned by senior citizens. As noted in the picture below, Jason is not a senior citizen. See...told you it wasn't that strange. It's really actually pretty cool if you ask me. Plus the previous owner left a camping toilet in their lauben. So generous, right :)



So now for the super weird. I am very familiar with the goth culture. You know, the kids that die their hair jet black, pierce any and everything and listen to heavy metal music? I, however, was not at all familiar with the Waves. I guess they are inspired by Japanese Anime. I don't know. All I know is I took a lot of pictures of these girls...and just kept following them. I stopped paying attention to Jason as he explained the significance of something or another...I was on a mission, to understand what the hell was going on with these girls. Even now I still can't figure it out. I had to stop typing and think about the Waves for a second.


So on that note...that's all for now. Hope you enjoyed our little trip to Leipzig together. Next up...Amsterdam!

3 comments:

  1. Leipzig-What a history lesson. It's hard to image the lives of people in countries other than your own. Especially, the not so past history.
    Thank Jason and Diana for sharing their 'home' town.
    I look forward to your experiences on Amsterdam.

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  2. Katie, keep it up, your blog is a nice read when I need some 'time' to myself... or away from work...

    I will be in Frankfurt last week of April.. :)

    Rp

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    1. Thanks Rp! Amanda told me you were a little shocked at the length. C'mon...you know I love to talk :)

      Let me know your details for Frankfurt and maybe we can figure out a way to meet up.

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